🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.